On the one hand, how can I possibly respect a brand oft-worn by Machine Gun Kelly that, despite having several languages at its disposal, named itself “Depressed Rich Kids.” But on the other, Jacques Marie Mage’s small-batch, Japanese-made frames may be the most exciting thing in eyewear today. I’m torn with how to feel about this Enfants Riches Déprimés x Jacques Marie Mage sunglass collection. It’s exciting to see MG’s signature silhouettes executed in the organic, unpredictable weave, which in this case isn’t palm fiber-based but made of a leather alternative in a straw dye. Mansur Gavriel releases a raffia collection that achieves freshness and familiarity, despite the material’s typical ubiquity during the spring/summer months. It’s reassuring that play and joy and expression in its most frothy, cloud-light form has a signature, and this Simon Miller-Melissa collab is it. But more than that, all the ditzy, hippie florals, neon, and outsize platform clogs remind me that the uniform of the youth remains continuous from generation to generation we did it in the ‘70s, the ‘90s, clearly in the nostalgic vortex we’re spinning in now, and everywhere in between. Simon Miller x Melissa is a public-pool-rinse-off, in-the-yard-with-a-garden-hose, ice-lollies-on-the-couch, go-as-you-are youth fantasy and the most palpable proof that summer’s coming I’ve felt this year yet. But the styles that do remain stand to become defining silhouettes-bias silks and low-rise minis that easily switch lanes across a dream Mirror Palais capsule and fantastical petticoats and poofy bloomers that demonstrate Gaia’s unique perspective on sex appeal. Mirror Palais Collection III was received with a frenzy of pre-orders, the most limited styles including those made of salvages lace, hand-selected by Marcelo Gaia, already sold out no doubt to the deep remorse of would-be-buyers outside the brand’s most nuclear following. The white tank is utterly cryptic, regardless of how much it wants to tell you about its innocence. In New York we wear bras as tops in the summer, we don’t care, but the idea with the white tank is almost to feign absolute ignorance, to obscure our motives and not let anyone onto how much we know. I think the reason for this shift is that our eye became trained to the former version and it was no longer perceived as an undergarment, turning down the volume on its message of carefree sensuality. (We don’t call them wifebeaters anymore but when I say that, you know exactly what I mean.) Now, the preference is leaning further towards skinny strap styles like Nicole Kidman’s in Eyes Wide Shut, or square neck versions like this one I love from Flore Flore. One observation about the tank movement: When it first reached hot-girl notoriety-let’s say around 2018/2019, when a nipple poking through fabric was still a novelty-the favored look was a ribbed racerback style. Meanwhile, Lissie Chappel (who’s spoken in Subrina Heyink’s newsletter on just this subject) expertly advised on the Eterne ribbed. So what is the best white tank? Those who chimed in on a Instagram Story call heralded many times over the Hanes Premium Comfort Soft from Target, Re/Done x Hanes, Brandy Melville, and Petit Bateau girls’ tanks. But even though the white tank seems like it’s been an unrelenting staple e’er present in the mass wardrobe we all share, I’m not so sure.Ī certain Annie Leibovitz snap of Anjelica Huston would have you believe in the white tank’s omnipresence, but the truth is that the understated garment is climbing out of normality and into its regency era, as ushered in on the FW’22 runway by Prada and Bottega Veneta (in leather, no less), making its ascent alongside egalitarian cohorts denim (Schiaparelli, Diesel) and jersey knit (Balenciaga). The last two summers have for sure been decorated with tan, toned arms flanked by creamy ribbed fabric disappearing sensuously into armpits. But it’s hard to say how long its streak has been.
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